![]() ![]() And all it takes is a cop having a bad day to give you a ticket for something that can easily be avoided.ĭon - any idea if using the factory wiring somehow makes aftermarket driving lights behave "legally"? We've all driven with the brights on without realizing it at some point, I'm sure. The chances of you being pulled over for this violation, of course, are slim. I would assume that if the fogs are wired properly, the answer is "yes". ![]() I'm not sure if the existing plug in the NA dash (boy, was I shocked to find that there a few weeks ago!) allows fog lights to function the proper way. This is why ALL cars that come with factory or dealer-installed driving lights are wired so the aux lights turn off when the brights are turned on. If you have your brights on, AND fog/driving lights, you're breaking the law (and being rude to oncoming traffic, but that's another discussion). Use of the brights (even if the low/hi beams are contained in one housing, such as the Miata) constitutes TWO sets of driving lights. Just something to recognize here, fellas:įor those of you who wired them to be always on with the parking or headlights - if the fogs do NOT go off when you use the brights, you are illegal.ĭOT rules state that no vehicle on-road may use more than two sets of driving lights. Use good-quality spade connectors, and solder them onto the wires-crimp connections won't last long under the hood. Also for the lights' ground wires, if they need them. Important: use 12-gauge or larger wire between the power source and the relay, and from the relay to the lights. (If you can't figure out a ground wire, you shouldn't be doing this project.) For a trigger, I used the blue connector behind the left headlight, which is hot when the ignition is on alternatively, you could use any switch to deliver 12V to the relay as a trigger. For power, I used the empty ABS lug in the main fusebox near the wiper motor, with an inline fuse between the fusebox and the relay. A relay has four wires attached to it: a wire from switch or other trigger, a wire from a source of power, a ground, and a wire that delivers power to the lights. You need to know that if you use the existing wiring and OEM switch, your foglights will only work when the low beams are on-they'll go off if you hit the high beams.įirst, I mounted a relay near the foglights. I wired my foglights as DRLs, coming on with the ignition, but much of the wiring is the same if you want to use a switch. I removed the blade, threaded it through the hole and reattached the blade to the saw, then cut out the traced rectangle, fitting the switch in periodically to make sure the switch fit correctly. I then drilled a hole through the blank, and got a hacksaw. I removed the center console, popped out that blank, and traced where the switch would go. The wiring has an inline fuse in the trunk, so if it becomes ungrounded it will blow that fuse instead of something else, so thats kinda nice.Īlso, my switch is in the blank where the power window switches go. Ran the wiring through the engine bay, covering it up as best I could. Ran the wiring behind the pedals where I found a convenient plugged hole in the firewall. Along the plastic sill cover to the driver's footwell. Wiring went back down behind the carpet behind the driver's seat. Had the wiring for the switch come up to the switch blank where the power window switches go on an appropriately equipped car. Ran the wiring down behind the carpet up the transmission tunnel. I ran the wires from the battery up through the pax side tunnel next to the gas tank in the trunk. Before I knew there was a fog light connector behind the dummy switches, I wired my aftermarket fog lights up a different way. ![]()
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